7/4/2023 0 Comments Download little ben clocksNonetheless, while there is truth to Lynn’s statement, on a strictly physical level height does allow taller climbers to cover the same amount of ground in fewer moves. As I’ve let my Napoleon Complex shine through, I’ve also often wondered if my woes about height were truly justified.Īt 5’2” with a negative ape index, Lynn Hill states in her book, Climbing Free, that “height has nothing to do with it it is your strength that counts.” As the first person to free the Nose on El Capitan, she certainly has a leg to stand on. I’ve felt the unjustness of the world weighing me down, my potential never being fully expressed in terms of grades. I’ve even accused tall people of “cheating” as they skipped holds. Through two decades of dangling on the rope, searching for intermediates on my way to the anchors, I’ve thrown tantrums and even temporarily quit climbing because of reachy moves that thwarted my every effort. “It must be so hard to be average height.”Ĭlocking in at 5’0” with a plus-2” ape index, I learned early on that the rock doesn’t offer equality. Earlier in 2018, I had made the third ascent by throwing to a sloper, a move the lanky, guitar-toting big-wall gypsy could easily reach. Eight bolts up, trying to sort out the best beta at the crux, Favresse starfished his skinny 5’9” frame, searching for the optimal body position. The climb is 30 meters long, gently overhanging, and features a teched-out shallow corner to a V10 crux. “If I were taller, this would be easier,” shouted the Belgian superstar Nico Favresse from the crux move of Shart Attack (5.14a) in Pine Creek, a granite crag just north of Bishop, California. Heading out the door? Read this article on the new Outside+ app available now on iOS devices for members!
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